Rear Braking with CPP - Web Exclusive

We're always talking about horsepower when it is now all show all go too. Today we are going to discuss and feature a tech article on braking, as stopping power is very crucial for lowriders. When you own a car full of batteries, reinforcing, hydraulics and a huge sound system you realize that weight designed for your vehicle does not match up to your classic drum brakes that your lowrider vehicle originally came with.

In this tech we are going to be installing a rear set of disc brakes to add some more stopping power to our vehicle. Rear wheel stopping will help a car stop a lot quicker and in a shorter distance, but needs to be setup properly because if you add to much braking power you could lock up the rear tires and spin out of control.

In this Technical Feature we stopped over at Classic Performance Products A.K.A CPP of Anaheim, CA where Javier pointed us in the right direction. He had already set up the front of this car with a set of CPP front brakes so he pulled together a rear kit and the proper proportioning valve for our upgrade. Using the right proportion valve will create enough pressure to evenly stop the car. Now follow along as we upgrade our old classic drum design over to a modern stopping machine using a CPP brake kit.

1. Our Player Wire Wheels wrapped with Coker 5.20's came off to allow access to the Currie rear end.

2. The axle and drum backing plates where removed from the housing.

3. With the axles out, the housing was ready to be worked on.

4. The rear housing was ready to be upgraded with a new set of CPP rear brakes.

5. The caliper brackets where mocked up before being bolted up.

6. The axle clip was bolted down to make sure the axle was locked in.

7. The shim plate kept the bearing plate flush.

8. The bearing plate's purpose was to keep the axle from shooting out of the housing.

9. The rear rotor was placed on to see how many shims where going to be needed on the calipers.

10. Once the distance was figured out the caliper bracket was bolted on.

11. The Currie axle had the caliper bracket bolted up.

12. The rotors where the easiest part of the install as they slipped right on and over the axle lugs.

13. With the adaptor of the wire wheel holding the rotor in place, this allowed the caliper to bolt right on.

14. Adding the rotors and calipers where done on both sides of the Currie Axle.

15. All that was left was to connect the hoses and bleed the brake fluid.

16. The Currie rear end was ready to have the wheels bolted back on and ready to roll.

17. Time to take a test ride and see how quickly and how short the distance is now when we stop.