11. 3/8 holes were used for the 3/8 bolts used to hold the bearing in place.
12. The lower arm was attached with ease.
13. The tubular arm needed to be bolted on to the bearing that allows the arm to travel like a normal A-arm.
14. Since we were adding CPP disc brakes, we needed to use non-disc spindles to assure that everything lined up.
15. We pulled off the stock drums and only kept the spindle and stock steering knuckle, as most kits are based off the 65-68 spindles.
16. The CPP’s brake kit was designed to allow 14-inch wire wheels to bolt up without a problem.
17. The steering knuckle and steering brackets were bolted on.
18. Once we saw that everything fit with the spindle, we tightened everything up.
19. The new bearings were ready to be lubed and installed.
20. The bearing was attached to the slotted and drilled rotor.
21. The dust protector was placed and ready to be fitted.
22. The dust protector was tapped in using a hammer.
23. Using something flat helped to allow the shield to go on without a problem.
24. The rotor slipped on normally and with ease.
25. The castle nut and cotter pin combination kept the rotor from coming loose.
26. We used a center punch to tap in the rotor dust cover.
27. With easy to use directions and engraved arrows we were able to install the rotors with no confusion.
28. The tie rods were reconnected.
29. The calipers were tightened again to make sure that they didn’t come loose.
30. The arms and brakes were ready for the coil over shocks.
31. The RideTech coil over shocks and coils were ready to be assembled.
32. The adjustable coils were assembled and ready to be attached.
33. This ½-inch grade eight-bolt was tightened down as it holds the shock in place.
34-35. The front suspension was back on the ground and ready to roll on our Player Wire Wheels and Coker tire combination.