1. Having already been equipped with a Heidts front end (currently outfitted with coilovers, which will soon make way for ShockWaves), the rear suspension on my Fleetline needed to be addressed in a major way. I won’t have a custom with its nose lower to the ground than its rear, period.

2. The solution; Jimenez Bros. Customs’ new adjustable two-link kit, complete with RideTech airbags, on a Moser Engineering Muscle Pak 12-bolt rearend with a two-piece driveshaft from Inland Empire Driveline. The kit provides form (lowness) and function all in one shot.

3-4. JBC’s two-link comes compete with square-tube trailing arms with bolt-on/adjustable rear end mount, adjustable forward link mount crossmember, four-piece step notch kit, tubular upper shock mounts, shocks, a Panhard bar, and airbags (from RideTech along with a two-way RidePro setup).

5. If at all possible, removal of the body allows for substantially less “overhead” work and gives you a much better vantage point for plotting out and installing components, although the kit does not require it for installation purposes. Once we pretty much had everything stripped from the trans-crossmember back, the frame was leveled on jackstands.

6. Beginning with the step notch portion, using the stock wheelbase gave us a great starting point. Since the rear wheels on the ’42-48 Chevy two-door Aerosedans (Fleetline) are exactly centered, we made the necessary adjustments to ensure they would be the perfect kick-off, especially at ride height. Preparation means not having to rely on fender skirts to conceal an error that can easily be avoided during this initial stage.

7. Once the side plates are squared up and placedwhere they’re supposed to be (in relation to the wheelbase), they’re welded to the frame. The metal thickness on the main portion of these frames is rather thin and fragile, so short weld sections were made to prevent any damage from excess heat.

8. Next, the flat plate top sections are welded in place. Starting from top center (with the plates themselves centered), they’re tacked in sections then bent accordingly as you work your way down to the frame rail.

9. Now, with the sides and tops welded up and the frame supported from both sides of the notch; the portion of framerail can be removed from the notch section using either a plasma cutter or a Saws-all.

10-11. The final component of the notch, the inner hoop, will tie everything together and re-establish the integrity of the framerail.