1. Having already been equipped with a Heidts front
end (currently outfitted with coilovers, which will soon
make way for ShockWaves), the rear suspension on my
Fleetline needed to be addressed in a major way. I won’t
have a custom with its nose lower to the ground than
its rear, period.
2. The solution; Jimenez Bros. Customs’ new adjustable
two-link kit, complete with RideTech airbags, on a
Moser Engineering Muscle Pak 12-bolt rearend with a
two-piece driveshaft from Inland Empire Driveline. The
kit provides form (lowness) and function all in one shot.
3-4. JBC’s two-link comes compete with square-tube
trailing arms with bolt-on/adjustable rear end mount,
adjustable forward link mount crossmember, four-piece
step notch kit, tubular upper shock mounts, shocks, a
Panhard bar, and airbags (from RideTech along with a
two-way RidePro setup).
5. If at all possible, removal of the body allows for
substantially less “overhead” work and gives you a
much better vantage point for plotting out and installing
components, although the kit does not require it
for installation purposes. Once we pretty much had
everything stripped from the trans-crossmember back,
the frame was leveled on jackstands.
6. Beginning with the step notch portion, using the
stock wheelbase gave us a great starting point. Since
the rear wheels on the ’42-48 Chevy two-door Aerosedans
(Fleetline) are exactly centered, we made the
necessary adjustments to ensure they would be the
perfect kick-off, especially at ride height. Preparation
means not having to rely on fender skirts to conceal an
error that can easily be avoided during this initial stage.
7. Once the side plates are squared up and placedwhere
they’re supposed to be (in relation to the wheelbase),
they’re welded to the frame. The metal thickness on
the main portion of these frames is rather thin and
fragile, so short weld sections were made to prevent
any damage from excess heat.
8. Next, the flat plate top sections are welded in place.
Starting from top center (with the plates themselves
centered), they’re tacked in sections then bent accordingly
as you work your way down to the frame rail.
9. Now, with the sides and tops welded up and the
frame supported from both sides of the notch; the portion
of framerail can be removed from the notch section
using either a plasma cutter or a Saws-all.
10-11. The final component of the notch, the inner
hoop, will tie everything together and re-establish the
integrity of the framerail.