454 Long-Block Build - Tech project

If you own a mid '60s Chevy Impala or Caprice, this tech is for you. The engine has to work a little harder on these heavier vehicles. You can compensate with a big-block engine, which will give you more torque and less stress. They will also make the car move a little better; instead of feeling like a sluggish land ship, your heavy Chevy will power along almost like a speedboat.

While doing a 350 build, we were talking with Jerry of Ace Machine in Riverside, California, about the different engines and Jerry invited us to come back when he was going to put together a big-block. On the scheduled day, we talked about how people get intimidated by a big-block, but the reality is that it works the same as a small-block with only minor differences in parts.

For instance, Jerry showed us that with a big-block you have to grind down the edges for clearance where the connecting rods could hit the wall. Other than that modification, this engine went together very similarly to a small-block. We were very surprised as he put together this long-block in just a few hours.

We talked about doing a 502 build tech, but opted to show you how to build a 454 before jumping into the bigger projects, as there's more 454 cores to work with versus the newer-style engines. Now follow along as the Jerry of Ace Machine shows us how to put together a 454 long-block.

	This 454-c.i.d. big-block...        read full caption This 454-c.i.d. big-block engine was ready to be put together.	Jerry started off by installing...        read full caption Jerry started off by installing the cam on the block. His method avoids doing damage to the lobes on the cam while installing. The cam was lubed with assembly lubricant to help protect it when the motor fires up dry for the first time.
A Phillips screwdriver was...        read full caption A Phillips screwdriver was used to push the cam into the final position.	The crank was blown dry after...        read full caption The crank was blown dry after being washed down to make sure that there's no debris on it and also help take off the protective coating that manufacturers put on the parts to increase shelf life.	In the following step we screwed...        read full caption In the following step we screwed in the main bearing tie-down studs that hold the four-bolt bearing caps. Only the big-blocks come with four-bolt caps on the crank as these engine blocks are designed to endure more stress.
Here's a view of what we're...        read full caption Here's a view of what we're taking about in regards to not damaging the cam. As you can see, there's nothing in the way that would do harm when you start off by installing the cam.	The bottom end was ready to...        read full caption The bottom end was ready to have the bearings put on. The bearings were placed into position and left ready for the crankshaft to be dropped in.	The crank was carefully laid...        read full caption The crank was carefully laid into position to avoid banging it up while being positioned as it's easy to mar the bearings.
The bolt studs were tightened...        read full caption The bolt studs were tightened down and left ready for the caps.	As the caps were being put...        read full caption As the caps were being put on, they were lubed to help protect them from the initial start up.	All of the studs were lubed...        read full caption All of the studs were lubed with ARP moly lubricant, which allows you to torque the bolts evenly.