The factory-style lug nuts for steel rims are what most manufacturers recommend for the adapters. | 
The reason that the industry uses lead hammers is that lead's a softer material so it doesn't bend or mar the finish of the knockoff. |
As you can see, these knockoffs have a taper to them which wedges into the hub, keeping them from coming loose. | 
As we mentioned earlier, you can't use long lug nuts as they will not allow the hub to engage with the adapter. |
Tighten your knockoff with the tire off of the ground to ensure that the knockoff pulls the hub and locks it into place with the adapter. | 
All you need is a little muscle to get that knockoff where it needs to be. |
Here's a look at the adapter. You can see the grooves which lock the hub and adapter together. | 
Always torque your adapters on in a cross pattern. |
You should have this much tread exposed when the wheel is pushed into the position that it needs to be in. | 
If you follow these few tips, you'll be ready to hit the boulevard. |
Here's a closer look at the teeth on the hub. If you start seeing wear on the hub, it's time to replace your wheels. | 
Your wheel needs to slide on. Always try to push it all of the way back, locking it in place with the adapter. It's always easier to tighten the knockoff. |
If you see shavings on your wheel, don't panic. It's not the chrome off of your wheels, it's usually the lead chunks that come off when hammering the knockoff in place. | 
You can see the notches on the back side of the hub that locks in to the adapter. |