Mold Your Oldie - Audiotech

Here at the rear of the vehicle you see where the wires enter the enclosure and that the nine-wire switch cable is coiled where it will likely exit the vehicle in order to more easily access the tire well.

Long-strand kitty hair is then used to strengthen the enclosure and start smoothing the foundation.

The floor panel was then cut and a section is routed out for a piece of Plexiglas. This will serve as a window to the hydraulic pumps that will be located in the tire well.

After applying a few coats of kitty hair for strength and a few coats of Bondo for shape, the box is sanded with 180-grit to alleviate some of the sand scratches from the 36- and 80-grit sanding. This rough body work will be necessary to achieve the proper shape, but will not by any means be the final prep. If painted, this enclosure will need many more hours of body work.

The semi-final product! From here it will either go to the upholsterer to wrap or to the body shop to paint. The finishing touches are what make the car, so choose wisely!

Here you can see the front wire runs. The speaker wires were routed to their desired locations, the nine-wire cable and ground wires for the hydraulics were run far away from the audio wires to reduce noise, and the power wire was run directly to the area where it will exit the firewall. All of the wires were then taped down to keep then in place, while the carpet is being laid and the upholstery is being done.

Now that the basic shape has been achieved, the car and panels are taped off and the entire area is sprayed with a mold release. This mold release will allow the desired contour to be achieved and keep it from permanently sticking to the other panels. Remember that the resin is a liquid and will drip like water, but harden like a rock. Properly cover the car to avoid any costly accidents.