In our March '06 issue, we showed you how Eddie and Michael Tovar, owners of Tovar's Restoration, bagged the front of Michael's daily driven '49 Chevy two-door sedan the low-buck "old school" way by modifying the stock suspension. It was simple, straightforward and took about one full day. (Note: The process is the same for '49 through '54 Chevrolets.)
This month, we'll show you how the brothers bagged the rear of the bomb on a budget, without removing the body. The materials cost about $200, and it took several days to complete the work. It's not so simple requiring the frame to be "step notched," but it's still very straightforward and doable for any savvy car builder.
To be certain, Michael got the correct airbags, as well as the compressors, tank, fittings, lines, valves, etc. He conferred with "Ponch" at The Bag Man (in Anaheim, California). Then he obtained all of the components from the air ride experts at Mac's Springs (in Highland, California), including Firestone double convoluted airbags for the front and sleeve bags for the rear.
Next month, we'll be following Ponch as he plumbs and wires everything to complete the sweet air ride. We'll also cover the custom exhaust system built by Leonard, Jr. at Lou's Mufflers & Radiators (in Hawaiian Gardens, California) to work with the adjustable rear suspension.
For now, follow the photos as Michael and Eddie show us how to convert the stock rear suspension of the '49 into a cool air ride that will literally let it lay frame. (Note: To allow the tires to tuck when the rear is dropped all of the way, Michael put on a set of 5.60-15 Firestone Vintage tires with OG wide whitewalls from Coker Tire in Fresno, California.)
 Before cutting the floor or...  Before cutting the floor or frame, Michael removed the interior and reinforced the body over the rear axle area with 1x1-inch square tube welded to the inner fender panels and 16-gauge sheet steel welded to the trunk floor and tubes. |  To allow clearance for the...  To allow clearance for the driveshaft when the car's dropped, the driveline hump was cut lengthwise, the metal was "relieved" and the underbody braces (shown laying on top of the hump) were cut off. |  |
 Two tapering (4-inch to 1-inch)...  Two tapering (4-inch to 1-inch) sections of sheet steel were then cut and welded into each side of the hump. |  Two rings (8-inch front, 10-inch...  Two rings (8-inch front, 10-inch rear) were then welded in place where the stock underbody braces had been. |  Before "notching" the frame,...  Before "notching" the frame, a step brace was made by welding a 12-inch piece of 2x2 1/2-inch square tubing and 8x1/4-inch plate steel vertical braces to the frame above the rear axle. |
 This section of the frame...  This section of the frame was then cut off, creating a "step notched" frame. (Note: Michael marked and saved the frame piece for other projects.) |  This is how the finished step...  This is how the finished step notch looks. There will be plenty of rearend clearance when the car is laid out. |  The Firestone "sleeve" airbags...  The Firestone "sleeve" airbags will be bolted over the rear axle to a "bridge" (made of 5-inch channel iron 45 inches long) and universal over-axle mounts (P/N PAC800231). |